About
Domaine des Lambrays
Domaine des Lambrays is a domaine with a long history, located in Morey-Saint-Denis, which is in the Côte-d'Or, Burgundy. The 8.66 hectares of vineyards are farmed according to biodynamic and organic approaches by Jacques Devauges, the current winemaker at the domaine.
The CEO and chairman of Moët Hennessy, Christophe Navarre, talks highly of the domaine’s wines: ‘It represents the perfect expression of the nobility of Burgundy wines,’ and names them as a “masterpiece.”
The top wines of the domaine are: Morey-Saint-Denis Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos du Caillerets, and Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières.
The Morey-Saint-Denis Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays 1919 scored 100, the Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos du Cailleret 2018 scored 92 - 94, and the Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatières 2018 scored 92 - 94 by the Wine Advocate.
Robert Parker’s tasting notes on Morey-Saint-Denis Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays 1919: “The 1919 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is an extraordinary wine, and it's still so full of life that no concessions need be made for its 100 years of age. Unfurling in the glass with a rich and captivatingly carnal bouquet of grilled ceps, cassis, musk, rich dried red fruits, caramelized orange rind and black truffle, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, its satiny attack segueing into a muscular and concentrated mid-palate that boasts an impressively deep and seamlessly integrated core of sweet fruit, before concluding with a long and sapid finish. This ranks alongside the 1923 as the best Clos des Lambrays I have drunk, but the 1919 has more in common with the broader, more powerful vintages at this address such as 1937 and 1947. Based on the vitality of this bottle, which dominated several 1945s and 1959s that preceded it, this 1919 is remarkably still many years away from decline.”
History
1365
Jacques Devauges has been the winemaker at Domaine des Lambrays since 2019.
"Clos des Lambrays" was mentioned for the first time in the 14th century. The archives of the Abbey of Cîteaux can prove the existence of the domaine since 1365.
By the end of the French Revolution, the Clos was extremely fragmented. However, the successive owners always insisted on the vineyards' completeness and their medieval parts, including the Clos.
When the first AOCs were defined back in 1936, Clos des Lambrays vineyards joined the category of premiers crus. However, some experts have always classified them as grands crus. It took almost half a century to define the position of Clos des Lambrays as the 33rd of the grands crus of Burgundy. The Rodier family helped the domaine get its official grand cru status in 1981. Thierry Brouin was the winemaker, having started just a couple of years before, in 1979.
The domaine was identified as a Burgundian jewel in 2014 and was purchased by the LVMH Group, which is the current owner of the domaine.
After the retirement of Thierry Brouin in 2018, Boris Champy tried his hand at winemaking but quickly passed it to Jacques Devauges in 2019.
The estate is a castle, and its cellars were built in the 17th century. There is also one of the region's oldest and most beautiful parks with 300-year-old cedars.
Approach
Byodynamic since 2020, organic since 2019
The vineyards of Domaine des Lambrays are farmed according to not-certified biodynamic and organic approaches by Jacques Devauges, the current winemaker at the domaine.
Jacques Devauges's predecessor, Thierry Brouin, ran the vineyards for nearly 40 years on more or less organic lines, with no chemical anti-rot sprays and ploughing by horse. In the cellar, Thierry Brouin used most of the stems, preferred punching down to pumping over and kept the amount of new oak- around 50 percent for the grand cru.
Jacques Devauges changes some winemaking customs of the domaine. He removed the automated fermenter, and a whole new cuverie was built. Jacques Devauges has also split the ancient clos into 11 cuvées, all individually vinified and matured separately and then 're-assembled' 16 months later for the final wine. This approach helps to understand the different parts of vineyards in detail.